The Ludes (Lood-ess) estate has been around since the 1950s, but it remained a local secret until recently when Julian Ludes, the founder's grandson, finally reached out to a US distributor. The main reason for this self-imposed obscurity is Julian’s winemaking partner, his uncle Hermann, who speaks only German and has never had any interest in pleasing the general public or reviewers with easy-going, fruity wines. Ludes' specialty is bracingly austere Kabinett—from dry to off-dry and everything in between. The 26-acre property is located about 20 miles northeast of Trier, along the mighty Mosel, in the village of Thörnich (pronounced tore-nick). The main vineyards are Ritsch and Enggass, both on steep slopes, plus the Thörnicher Schiesslay vineyard on alluvial flatlands across from Ritsch. All the fruit is processed in steel, and all bottles have been sealed with screwcaps since 2000. Otherwise, that's where the similarity to most other Mosel wines ends. These brutish Rieslings are unadorned, natural, and expressive. If you love your Kabinett on the fierce side, try Ludes. We want to welcome Julian and Uncle Hermann to the spotlight.
